It's a Tucson tradition: tamales at Christmas.
And everyone seems to have their favorite.
For many on the west side, the place to go for red chile tamales is Anita St. Market.
The neighborhood staple has been serving tamales, as well as burritos, popovers, tacos and more, in Barrio Anita for decades.
"To me, it's not even work," said owner Gracie Soto.
"It's a legacy that I love."
Anita's is well known for its giant Sonoran-style flour tortillas.
"What's the secret?" Soto asks. "It's made with love and a lot of work."
Soto still uses her grandmother's recipes to make memorable tortillas, grande burritos and delicious tamales, all from scratch.
"I never intended to change anything about their recipes because there's no need for that," she said.
To better understand the legacy of Anita Street Market, you have to look back at the origin story of Barrio Anita.
According to Tucson historian David Leighton, the neighborhood was originally called McKinley Park.
Thomas Hughes, brother of Sam Hughes, who helped develop the area, named it after President William McKinley. McKinley had nominated Thomas as postmaster of Tucson.
McKinley Park included Annie Avenue, named in honor of Thomas' sister, Annie Hughes.
By 1911, the street name was changed to reflect her nickname, Anita Street, and the neighborhood followed suit.
In 1936, a Chinese market opened in a brand new building at the corner of Anita Avenue and Lord Street.
It was one of 100 Chinese markets at the time in Tucson.
By 1984, Soto's grandparents opened Anita Street Market in the building that has now become Gracie's passion.
"I see (it) as more than just a building," Soto said. "She's been here 90 years. She is Tucson. That's what I see."
After going through some rough times, Soto's grandparents decided to play to their strengths.
"You know you're red chile and so that's where it began," Soto said. "They started to make the food and just red chile, green chile, tamales, machaca, beans. That's how they started and it just grew from there."
Soto grew up in the market serving amazing food.
She watched her family put everything they had into making it a success.
"It's the last of its kind," Soto said "That's it. After her, there is no more continuously running market by original families anymore. So, that's a lot of weight to carry."
That weight nearly became too much for Soto in recent years as financial struggles surrounding the business became overwhelming.
But Soto persevered.
"They're grateful," she said. "I've had customers cry. They're so happy Anita's is still open."
A recent Historic Preservation grant will help keep Anita's open.
Soto says that's very important for this predominately Hispanic neighborhood.
"This is one of the oldest and smallest barrios," she said. "So, this is Tucson right here. This is where it all began in this area. There (are) a lot of families in Tucson that have some relationship or some attachment to this barrio.
She added, "Whether it was their great-grandparents, their nana, somebody was born in one of these homes. So, I feel like it just takes them back to growing up in a barrio and just going to one of these markets that existed in every barrio. It makes them reminisce, but it also takes them back to a time that doesn't exist anymore."
There is a fourth generation ready to take over Anita's.
Soto's son is a senior at Tucson High and, someday, will likely take over the family business.
Whether it's red chile tamales at Christmas, or a gigantic burrito for lunch, Anita St. Market remains a fixture in Barrio Anita.
"This is where it's supposed to be, has always been, and God willing, will be another 40 years."
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Pat Parris is an anchor and reporter for KGUN 9. He is a graduate of Sabino High School where he was the 1982 high school state track champion in the 800 meters. While in high school and college, he worked part-time in the KGUN 9 newsroom. Share your story ideas and important issues with Pat by emailing pat.parris@kgun9.com or by connecting on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
