TUCSON, Ariz. (KGUN) — Tucson is known for its abundance of Mexican restaurants, but Jewish delicatessens are few and far between.
That’s what makes the opening of Kneller’s Delicatessen (2545 E Speedway Blvd #115) in Midtown such a notable event.
The deli is the vision of Jeremy Kneller-Hernandez, a longtime manager of some of Tucson’s most popular restaurants, who is now striking out on his own.
The East Coast-style deli opened with a ribbon-cutting ceremony and a line of eager customers.
“My grandpa’s from the Bronx, my grandma’s from Queens,” Kneller-Hernandez said. “And so we’d always go to delicatessens early in the morning. It was such a vibe, man.”
Those childhood memories inspired him to create something different in the Old Pueblo.
After ending a previous food cart venture and a stint selling Kneller's Delicatessen items at St. Phillip's Farmers Market, Kneller-Hernandez said he knew it was time for something new.
“About a year ago, I was doing a food cart with another buddy," he reminisced. "We ended that, and the day we said goodbye, I just knew exactly what to do."
Part of his preparation included a trip to New York City — where he did some on-the-ground research.
“He visited 11 delicatessens,” said his mother, Bonnie Kneller. “He wanted to check it out — what were they doing, what was unique, what was the vibe they were creating?”
Back in Tucson, Kneller’s Delicatessen is already serving up a selection of family recipes and East Coast staples— rarely found in the desert.
“Matzo chips, which you can not get anywhere in town,” Kneller said. “Homemade horseradish and some other really delicacy items.”
Local food writer Mark Whittaker welcomed the deli’s arrival.
“We desperately need something like this in this town,” he said. “Because, in a town so vibrant with food and food culture, it’s just been lacking a proper Jewish deli.”
For Kneller-Hernandez, it’s about more than the food — it’s about filling a cultural gap.
“It’s a big deal,” he said. “I think a lot of people are hungry for this nostalgia or this part of the culture that is not really showcased here in the desert.”
Kneller’s Delicatessen is open Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. at its Midtown location.
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Eddie Celaya is a multimedia journalist at KGUN 9. Born in Tucson and raised in the Phoenix area, Eddie is a life-long Arizonan and graduate of the University of Arizona who loves the desert and mountains and hates the cold. Previously, Eddie worked in print media at the Arizona Daily Star. Share your story ideas with Eddie at edward.celaya@kgun9.com, or by connecting on Facebook or Instagram.
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